After looking at thousands of tutorials on Pinterest & gawking over Fixer Upper episodes with shiplap walls, I was feeling inspired and decided to jump on the shiplap bandwagon and add some shiplap to my dining room. With so many tutorials out there; I had trouble deciding on which to follow.
I decided to go with one of my favorite blogs to follow, Table & Hearth, I knew she wouldn’t let me down (no pressure).
The reason why I chose to go her route you ask??? Well I knew I couldn’t convince the Mr. to shiplap a whole room—after all, he refers to shiplap as horizontal paneling (I cringe every time he says that, don’t you?). So I eased him into thinking of only having a feature wall of shiplap. After he shot down shiplapping (yes, I use that is a verb) the whole room, we “compromised” on a feature wall.
In Emily’s tutorial at Table & Hearth, she also did a feature wall & not the whole room. I loved how she trimmed the edges to give more of a finished look. If there is one thing the Mr. can get on board with, it’s trim. He loves trimming all our DIYs-the built in bookshelves in the living room, the planked ceiling on the porch, and now the shiplap in the dining room. I secretly think he just likes to impress me with his miter saw skills.
- ¼ inch 4′ x 8′ underlayment plywood, ripped into 8” strips (we used these for the shiplap planks- we bought a total of 4 for our feature wall)
8’ft fill-it strips (used as a finishing edge, we needed 6 total to frame in the shiplap)
- Brad nail gun
- Brad nails
- Miter saw
- Table saw (if you decide to rip your own shiplap planks)
- Tape measure
- 3 or 4 nickels
- Bottle of wine 😉
I had been playing around with the idea of shiplapping our dining room for a while now. The big undertaking of this project for us was removing our picture frame molding. All four of our dining room walls had the picture frame molding, so if I wanted 1 wall of shiplap, I knew I would have to remove all four walls of picture frame molding for aesthetics.
This was one messy & labor intensive job. We had to apply several layers of mud to patch the places we took the molding off the wall, and sand down the mud several times. But once we were done, we knew majority of the mess & hard work was behind us. So, on we went to the hardware store.
We chose the ¼ inch 4′ x 8′ underlayment board which runs for around $11 each. This board is super lightweight which allows it to be hung with brad nails. You can also use construction adhesive if you feel the planks need a little something extra.
The Mr. & I would have opted to have the hardware store cut it for us, but their saw was temporarily broken. Thankfully, we have our own table saw an easily were able to cut it at home. This was probably more of a blessing in disguise. I originally wanted the planks to be 6” strips, (which would have been 7 cuts per 4′ x 8′ board). After getting home, I chose to go with a thicker plank on the wall, and had the Mr. cut the boards into 8” strips. Here’s another great reason to go with 8” strips over 6”—you don’t have to hang as many on the wall! We have crown molding & baseboard molding we left intact while installing, and only had to hang 11 rows of our “shiplap” planks. If we had gone the 6” route, we would have had roughly 14.5 rows of “shiplap” to hang.
We started in the top left corner of the wall, we pushed the board up to butt against the bottom edge of the crown molding, and used a level to make sure the board was straight. When we got that board hung with the brad nails, we measured the remaining half of the wall for the length of the next plank and cut to fit
When we were ready to hang the second strip, we used nickels as spacers between the top row and the 2nd row we were working on, and continued to use the nickle spacer for all the other rows to follow.
Hanging the shiplap went super fast, next thing we knew, we had one row left of shiplap to hang, but first we had to use our skill saw and the multi tool to cut out around an outlet.
Next thing we knew, 11 rows of shiplap were hung, and we were ready to trim the feature wall out.
We bought 8’ long pine fill-it strips for 97 cents apiece to frame in the shiplap accent wall. It is a plain, flat, ¼ inch thick strip of pine. I chose this type of board for the trim because it was super cheap and I didn’t want a thick piece because it might look weird sticking far off of the wall near the edges of the crown & base molding. The Mr. kept things fancy and used his miter saw to cut the corner edges of the fill-it strip at a 45-degree angle, no butt cuts for this Thrifty Diva please!
Our wall is around 8′ tall, and 13′ wide, so we needed one fill-it strip for each vertical part of the frame, and roughly two fill-it strips for each of the horizontal parts of the frame. To join together the two horizontal pieces of fill-it strips, he used his miter saw to make a beveled cut to hide the seam between the two horizontal pieces.
Once the trim was framed around our faux shiplap, we were ready for paint. We brushed on the paint between the planks, so the paint wouldn’t gunk up in the seams, and then we rolled over the top of our brush strokes. It took two coats of primer and one coat of paint. I opted to use Olympic, Mountain Gray-it’s more of an off-white color that I already had it on hand.
Hanging the shiplap was a lot easier than I thought it would be. Thankfully our walls were pretty square and didn’t take any MacGyvering to stay level. If you are thinking of shiplapping your walls, I recommend highly this project! The Mr. & I had a ton of fun together on this one, and we both love the outcome. If you’re looking for more home decor inspiration follow up on Pinterest!